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Against the backdrop of its dramatic, jagged mountain vista, meandering roads and constantly shifting weather, the Isle of Skye has traditionally attracted nature enthusiasts. During the past ten years, though, the largest island in the Inner Hebrides has been attracting visitors for other reasons – its thriving food and drink scene. Pioneering this movement are up-and-coming Sgitheanach (people from Skye) with a global outlook but a devotion to regional, environmentally conscious ingredients. This is also driven by an engaged community keen to create good, all-season jobs that retain young people on the island.

A Dedication to Local Produce

Calum Montgomery is a native of the island, and he’s deeply committed to featuring the island’s produce on his menus. “For those traveling to the island I want them to cherish the natural beauty, but also the quality of our produce,” he says. “Shellfish like mussels, lobster, scallops and crab from our waters are second to none.” He honors tradition: “It holds great significance for me to use the same products as my ancestors. My grandfather was a lobster fisherman and we’re enjoying crustaceans from the same stretch of water, with the identical reverence for ingredients.”

The chef's A Taste of Skye menu displays the mileage his produce has been transported. Visitors can sample fat scallops harvested manually in a nearby sea loch (no distance), and creel-caught lobster from the island's capital (a short distance) with greens, foraged herbs and culinary blooms from the kitchen garden and seashore (hyper-local). This link to local bounty and growers is crucial. “A short while ago I took a junior cook out with a shellfish forager so he could learn what they do. We shucked scallops straight from the water and consumed them uncooked with a squeeze of lemon. ‘That’s the best scallop I’ve ever eaten,’ he said. This is exactly what we want to offer to the restaurant.”

Culinary Ambassadors

Traveling in a southerly direction, in the majesty of the mighty Cuillin mountains, an additional gastronomic advocate for Skye, Clare Coghill, manages a well-loved café. In the past year the chef showcased Scottish cuisine at a celebrated international culinary festival, serving seafood sandwiches with Scotch-flavored spread, and innovative local dishes. She initially launched her café in a different city. Returning home to Skye during the pandemic, a series of pop-ups demonstrated there was a demand here too.

While enjoying a specialty drink and delicious citrus-marinated fish, Coghill notes: “I’m really proud that I established in a major city, but I found it challenging to achieve what I can do here. Sourcing quality produce was a huge mission, but here the shellfish come straight from the sea to my kitchen. My local fisherman only speaks to me in the native language.” Her passion for Skye’s produce, community and environment is evident across her colourful, creative dishes, all filled with homegrown elements, with a hint of local culture. “My connection to local traditions and tongue is incredibly significant,” she says. Visitors can use informative placemats on the tables to discover a basic terms while they eat.

Several locals worked elsewhere. We witnessed the produce arrive far from where it was landed, and it’s just not as good

Honoring Heritage with Creativity

Long-running dining establishments are constantly innovating. A boutique hotel operated by a local family in her historic residence has traditionally been a gastronomic attraction. The family matriarch publishes popular books on the nation's cuisine.

The chefs regularly introduces new ideas, with a energetic new generation headed by an experienced head chef. When they’re not in the kitchen the chefs cultivate herbs and spices in the hotel greenhouse, and collect for native plants in the grounds and sea herbs like sea aster and shoreline herbs from the shoreline of a nearby loch. In the fall they track woodland routes to find wild mushrooms in the forest.

Patrons can enjoy Skye scallops, leafy vegetables and nuts in a savory broth; Atlantic cod with Scottish asparagus, and chef-prepared lobster. The hotel’s outdoor guide accompanies visitors for excursions including wild food gathering and angling. “There is significant demand for immersive activities from our patrons,” says the manager. “Visitors desire to come and really get to know the island and the terrain.”

Beyond the Kitchen

The distilling sector is also contributing to retain the younger generation on Skye, in jobs that extend past the summer period. An operations manager at a local distillery explains: “Aquaculture was a significant local employer in the past, but now many roles are handled by machines. Property costs have increased so much it’s challenging for new generations to live here. The whisky industry has become a really important employer.”

“Opportunities in distilling, training provided” was the notice that a recently graduated island resident noticed in her local paper, landing her a job at the spirits facility. “I just took a punt,” she says, “It was surprising I’d get a production job, but it was a long-held aspiration.” The distiller had an curiosity about whisky, but no relevant qualifications. “Having the opportunity to train onsite and learn online was incredible.” Today she is a key team member, helping to train apprentices, and has developed her signature spirit using a distinctive ingredient, which is maturing in barrels at the time of writing. In other distilleries, that’s an privilege usually given to retiring distillers. The tasting room and bistro hire a significant number from around the surrounding area. “We meld into the community because we attracted the community here,” says a {tour guide manager|visitor experience lead|hospital