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I learned that the traditional Indian seasoning podi – a coarse mix of intensely spicy, roughly ground spices, which you stir into a little oil and use as a dip for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” spice mix. It's aptly named if you were using my grandmother’s homemade dried chilies, but it would be kind to say that I’m far less daring with chilli, so here I suggest crushed chilies instead. It’s an exceptionally great marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Spicy Paneer and Potato Skewers with Citrus-Mint Dressing

Prepare six to eight metal or wooden skewers (if made of wood, immerse them in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 minutes
Cook half an hour
Serves a couple

14 ounces waxy potatoes, sliced into 1.5-inch chunks
Two hundred twenty-five grams paneer, diced into 0.8-inch cubes
One tsp coriander seeds
½ teaspoon fennel seeds
One tsp cumin seeds
One tsp black peppercorns
1 tsp chilli flakes
1½ teaspoon flaky sea salt, with more for serving
2 garlic pieces, prepared and minced
1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and grated
about 3 tablespoons flavorless oil
1 red onion, skinned and sliced into eight wedges, then cut in half horizontally

For the dressing
Zest and juice from one lime, finely grated
0.35 ounces fresh mint leaves, diced small
Half a teaspoon flaky sea salt
One hundred grams natural yoghurt

Boil the potatoes for 9 minutes, then drain them and allow to air dry for a minute. In the interim, put the paneer cubes in a bowl of boiling water for 5 minutes, then strain and blot dry.

Tip the cumin, coriander, and fennel seeds into a pestle and mortar or blender, add the salt, chili flakes, and peppercorns, then pound or blitz to a chunky blend.

Tip into a large mixing bowl with the grated garlic and ginger, add the oil, then lightly combine with the cubed paneer, cooked potatoes and red onions to coat. Arrange the paneer, potatoes and onions on to barbecue sticks, then transfer to a baking sheet and keep ready – optionally, you can at this stage wrap and chill the skewers.

Stir all the ingredients for the dressing in a medium bowl. Turn on the grill to its maximum heat, then bake the sticks for a short time on each side, until the paneer is crispy and the potatoes are beginning to blacken. (This may take a little more or less time depending on the fierceness of your grill, so watch carefully, especially when cooking the first side.)

Serve the skewers hot, topped with a little more sea salt and the sauce on the side for serving.