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The Greek Capital

Craggy coves and beautiful beaches form the stunning blend that is the coastline of Athens. Thus at the close of an fall afternoon, I found myself with a not unpleasant question: where to go to soothe bones still longing for a last splash of summer sun. For Athens offers something that other European cities do not: a shoreline of over 60 kilometers dotted with beaches many a Aegean isle would envy.

During the off-season, the coasts of Attica still have a strong appeal, as I found when swimming into a setting sun across the bay of Vouliagmeni. For those seeking revitalization in azure seas primed to turn orange pink as the sun sets, bathing off one of the coastline's accessible or exclusive beaches does not let you down.

With ocean spray still on my skin, I sat at Sardelaki, a tavern whose regional cuisine is as good as the spectacular view of the inlet it sits on. In a tribute to bygone eras, the meze is served on large wooden trays.

Athens is as celebrated for its elevations as its shore: natural elevations within view of the ancient citadel that make it a treasure trove for amblers when the weather cools. For those who want to get away from a city that sprawls across almost 200 square miles, these stone formations – holders of fabulous names such as the Nymphs' Hill and the Muses' Hill – are a must.

In my opinion, this historic city is the continent's most spiritual and sublime.

If you climb the summit of Lycabettus Hill, the city’s tallest peak, either on foot or on the funicular rail car, the prize is a stunning view of the whole Argo-Saronic Gulf and the offshore isles.

If you want to stay centrally, the historic Plaka district remains the ideal location. The old-school a classic hotel hotel has rooms facing the north side of the Acropolis from about €140 B&B. In the same area, Zorbas is a preferred eatery with locals and serves the most succulent lamb cutlets. With views of the Acropolis, Athens’ elevated dining spots are wonderfully atmospheric and ideal for warm autumn evenings – for a special experience head to Kuzina or the award-winning Macris.

The Sicilian Capital

Think Neapolitan margherita is the ultimate in pizza? Think again. In this city they prefer sfincione, a tender, airy slice of bread topped with rich, onion-laden sauce and sprinkled with caciocavallo cheese and oregano. Savory, satisfying and comforting, it’s available in shops, stands and carts throughout the town (Via Maqueda in the historic centre usually has multiple sellers).

We sample it at a kiosk on a central square, near where we’re staying. Panineria Chiluzzo often has big lines, but they progress fast as young staff serve slices of sfincione, as well as rice balls and chickpea fritters. There are a couple of seats under the shade outside, but we eat as we walk into town along narrow a street. This is a pleasant stroll in autumn but wouldn’t always be in the heat. As heatwaves swept Europe this year, temperatures in Sicily topped 104F in the shadow. At the summer's peak one hot spot reached an unprecedented 70C at the surface.

We stroll the city and enjoy how its rich past is written in its architecture.

Now, as temperatures creep to 75F by mid-afternoon, we can wander the metropolis and appreciate how its heritage is visible in its streets. Passing historic buildings, and Casa Stagnitta, the city’s first coffee house, we take in the Arab-Norman domes of the medieval church of San Cataldo; Piazza Pretoria, with its Renaissance fountain, installed under colonial times; and the impressive cathedral, built on the site of a ancient Islamic temple.

On the way back we detour to the local market, the origins of which also stretch back over a millennium. Some criticize its touristification, but it is still lively and highly dramatic. Feeling brave, we pause for a classic spleen sandwich, which is surprisingly OK, with its slightly sweet “filling” balanced by cheese topping. The stallholder is particularly proud of his offal specialty but, I’m sorry, no amount of seasoning can make those a treat for me.

We’re glad to head back to quieter La Kalsa, the historic district to the east, which was bombed in the second world war and languished for decades before being revitalized this era. Maison Butera (sea-view doubles from €161 with breakfast) is a four-room B&B with many attractions close by. Nearby is Palazzo Butera, a baroque baroque pile renovated and relaunched in recently to display the an art collection, which includes works by Gilbert & George and Andy Warhol.

Next day we walk a short distance to Palermo’s Botanical Garden, with its notable multi-trunk fig tree. Songbirds are chirping loudly as the sun pours down. Soon we’ll be in London, the clocks will go back and the cold season will start. We relish a final days in the sunshine.

The Austrian Capital

While lamenting the close of the warm season and hanging out at beach bars and swimming areas on the tributaries of the river, I’m now chasing a different color. This city is a city of parks and manicured gardens, meadow sweeps and forest zones, which swap their emerald halo for a rusty amber and ochre glow the Austrians call Goldener Herbst.

I leave behind the grandiose architecture and old streets of the historic centre. To the southwest of it, Schloss Schönbrunn Park extends from the grand royal palace, where the gold isn’t reserved for the inside, and makes its way into pathways of tall copper bushes and curved walkways that lead to the butter-yellow palace.

To the east, in the city’s a large park, I walk beneath the shady trees of the main avenue, an avenue that’s almost five kilometers long and centuries-old. On the edge of the park, the vintage-designed a trendy hotel (rooms from $85 B&B) is a perfectly placed getaway.

In a city with many city gardens (thanks to a dedicated effort to promoting parks and fostering local culture), the fall brings a feast of fresh produce on menus. Squash soup is the classic dish – best devoured in a traditional Beisl such as the decorated a popular spot – and accompanied by a Wiener Schnitzel.

The city is a place of parks and gardens that swap their green cover for a golden and warm hue.

Unbeknown to many, the capital is the sole continental city to grow wine within its city limits, with 700 hectares of grape fields. There are fourteen designated urban paths, known as Stadtwanderwege. Track 1 leads you through the wine country of Nussdorf. Settle in a hillside wine tavern such as Wieninger am Nussberg, drinking a citrussy white wine with a Brettljause (a platter of cold cuts and cheese), while soaking up the sublime city vista.

The days are getting briefer, but now is the ideal moment to wander among the city's grand buildings, museums and historic abodes – a {cultural crop|